RUSSIAN HILL WORTH SEARCH BOB HOSMON WINE - Sun-Sentinel (Fort Lauderdale, FL) December 11, 2003 Russian Hill is a small winery in the heart of Sonoma County's Russian River Valley. But every wine it produces is a blockbuster that deserves attention. If you're looking for something unique this holiday season, look to Russian Hill. The winery is noted for its pinot noirs and syrahs, many produced from single vineyards. But production at Russian Hill is limited, and some wines are not easy to find. They are, however, worth the search. Consider, for example, the 2000 Russian Hill Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and the 2001 Russian Hill Russian River Valley "Top Block" Syrah. The pinot is redolent of fresh cherry and raspberry flavors, ending in a rich, luscious finish. It's one of the best California pinot noirs I've sampled. The syrah is a powerhouse red, filled with rich fruit flavor and an elegant finish. I think that syrah is going to be the next "merlot" for American consumers, and it's the syrahs like those made at Russian Hill that will spark that change. SERVE WITH: The pinot noir goes well with veal and pork but especially well with lamb. The syrah is at its best with grilled steaks, prime rib or pepper steak. It's also great with sauteed chicken livers. AVAILABILITY/ SUGGESTED RETAIL: Sold in better wine shops, the pinot retails for $27, the syrah for $30 a bottle. Holiday gifts Sure-to-please book selections for that wine lover are Matt Kramer's Making Sense of Wine (Running Press, $19.95) and Leslie Sbrocco's Wine for Women. (Morrow, 2003, $24.95). Kramer, a writer for The Wine Spectator, is a delight to read, and his new book dispels the hocus-pocus associated with wine. Sbrocco, a California-based wine writer, succinctly and effectively addresses issues of interest to any wine lover, but she directs her information to women who constitute the majority of wine consumers. Topics in her book include shopping for wine, pairing food with wine, hosting tasting parties, entertaining and gift-giving. Wine of the Week SELECTION: Named for the winery's founder, the 2000 Tarapaca Zavala is an extraordinary, complex blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Filled with full ripe fruit flavors and ending in a long finish, it's a great red. SERVE WITH: Enjoy this Chilean winner with grilled beef, spicy meat dishes and risotto with Italian sausage. AVAILABILITY/ SUGGESTED RETAIL: Sold in wine shops for about $22 a bottle. Have a question about wine? Write to Wine, Sun-Sentinel, 200 E. Las Olas Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33301-2293. Or send an e-mail with your full name, address and telephone number to dhartz@sun-sentinel.com with "Wine Column" in the subject line. Sorry, no personal replies.