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GIFTS FOR YOUR FAVORITE WINE FAN
Jordan Mackay, SPECIAL TO THE AMERICAN-STATESMAN
December 11, 2003


If you come from holiday gift-giving people, you know the importance of playing down at least a few of your enthusiasms. Family members who see right through to your inner geek will seize upon your latest enthusiasm with the ferocity of an E! Television reporter who's been tipped off to the home address of Michael Jackson's podiatrist. As a nascent teenage guitar player, was there any guitar-related trinket I didn't receive? From the Jimi Hendrix albums to the keychain in the shape of a Gibson Flying V to the gold necklace with the Stratocaster pendant, the song remained the same. Teenage hobbyists make easy holiday targets.

As do wine enthusiasts. A look at the International Wine Accessories Web site (www.iwawine.com) maps the territory of gifts for the oenophile.

First there are the corkscrews. The simplest remains the best: the trusty waiter's friend. Forget the expensive mechanical "rabbits" and other gimmicky devices. The classic corkscrew is superior for its degree of control, simplicity and low cost. Look for one with a Teflon bore (it's black), which seems to penetrate tight cork more smoothly than the metallic variety. There should be two notches on the lever, one to pull the cork halfway up and the other to bring it all the way out. But no matter what sort you get, don't leave it in your carry-on bag when boarding a plane. This will not make the FAA very happy.

Decanters are another good choice for the wine lover in your life. There are decanters made of crystal and decanters made of glass. The Riedel Ultra is a beautifully shaped and blown piece of crystal, but its graceful dimensions makes it impossible to pour the last few drops without spilling -- a major demerit for a glorified pitcher that costs $139. I own one decanter, which was given to me by newlyweds who received two or three as wedding presents. Otherwise, I've used an empty milk bottle, flower vases and even Pyrex measuring cups. If you're looking to make a showy display of serving fine wine at home, an expensive crystal decanter is just fine. But if you're simply looking to take a wine off its sediments or give a young wine a bracing dose of oxygen, any clean vessel made of glass will do.

There are other categories of paraphernalia: coasters, ice buckets, wine racks, decorative corks, etc. But my preferred gifts -- to give and to receive -- are stemware and books.

Anyone with a serious interest in wine needs books. The education of the palate is as much about reading and study as about tasting. Recent arrivals I would recommend are Andrew Jefford's "The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine" (Mitchell Beazley, $45) and Leslie Sbrocco's "Wine for Women: A Guide to Buying, Pairing, and Sharing Wine" (Morrow Cookbooks, $24.95). The former is an examination of recent transformations in the major wine regions of France, highlighting an emerging generation of artisanal vintners devoted to restoring France's reputation as the world's greatest wine-producing country. Detailed maps and evaluations abound. Sbrocco's book is a lighthearted introductory guide. It starts from the premise that wine is a male-dominated subject, despite the fact that women purchase more than men. Though the book's hook is its female-centric slant (e.g., comparing various kinds of wine to types of clothing found in most women's wardrobes), this is a good starter book for men as well.

The other great gift is stemware, which is impossible to have enough of. Though Riedel seems to make a glass for every beverage on earth (I'm still waiting for the Riedel Red Bull and vodka stem), there are a few important glasses that no wine lover should be without. A first-rate, wide-bodied pinot noir glass is a must. The Riedel Vinum, Vinum Extreme or the Spiegelau Authentis series are all excellent. It's good to have high-quality glasses for cabernet-based wines as well, so you may want to consider the cab models in the above series. (A friend of mine favors the Riedel Vinum Series syrah glasses for all reds, so feel free to figure out what you like.) A versatile white wine glass is also nice. I like the Spiegelau Authentis "all-purpose" model. Eight to 10 champagne flutes also come in handy at least once a year, but I tend not to be so particular about those.

If none of these fit the bill, there's always the last resort for making the wine lover in your life happy: Give her a bottle of wine.

jordan_mackay@hotmail.com