Burgundian call of the wild Tasting through France's Pinot Noir and Chardonnay country Why do people get so passionate about Burgundy? It's certainly one of the most beautiful and historically important wine regions in the world, but there's something more elusive. If a place can speak to your heart, then Burgundy screams, pouts and seduces all at the same time. I guess to those of us wine lovers who covet slightly wild and unpredictable things in life, the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of Burgundy are the Holy Grail. When Burgundies are bad, they can be pretty bad, but when they're good, they are amazing ... Chardonnays with depth, freshness and flavors that go on forever, or rich, supple Pinots that feel like you're drinking velvet. It's worth the search to experience moments of magic. Daytripping From downtown Paris it takes a bit more than two hours by TGV train to reach the vineyard-laden slopes of Burgundy. Recently, I spent a week traversing this narrow swath of land at a trade event dubbed "Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne," or the Grand Days of Burgundy. During the six-day fete I tasted nearly 400 wines - ranging from 50-year-old bottles to barrel samples of 1999s - and had the opportunity to explore the famed vineyards known to inspire awe in Burgundy fans. (Don't tell anyone about the handful of la Romanée-Conti vineyard dirt stashed in my suitcase.) The week began in the northernmost region of Chablis. Then I tasted my way down through each nook and cranny of the Cote d'Or and finished the week south of Santenay in the lesser-known regions of Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais, home to Pouilly-Fuisse. Plan your own Grand Days Tour The whole of Burgundy is not that large - around two-and-a-half hours by car from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south - which makes it convenient for the wine traveler. It's also an ideal place to spend time if you're a food lover because Burgundians pride themselves not only on their winemaking traditions, but also on their high-quality local dishes such as escargot, chaource cheese and above all else, beef. If vineyards aren't blanketing the landscape, it's dotted with Charolais cows. These animals are integral to the regional cuisine and central to dishes like Beef Bourguignonne. So if you visit Burgundy, be prepared to not only drink your fill of wine, but also eat your share of rich food. It's not a trip for the calorie-conscious, but hey, live a little when in Burgundy. That's what inspires passion. 1997 Grand Cru Tasting at the Hospices de Beaune When I arrived in Beaune, the first two days were sunny and very warm, yet as I was having lunch several days later in the foothills outside Beaune, it was snowing. This is a prime example of why vintage is so important in Burgundy. The unpredictable weather of the region can embrace and nurture the grapes one year and destroy them the next. (Let's just say Burgundy's vintage charts are about as stable as today's hi-tech stocks.) On the fourth night of the "Les Grands Jours" event, the Syndicat des Negociants en Vins de Bourgogne held a tasting of nearly 40 Grand Cru wines from 1997. The bottlings were those of the large negociants such as Drouhin, Boisset, Latour and others, but it offered a picture of the 1997 vintage as a whole. The weather was not as favorable in 1997 as it was in 1995 and 1996, both excellent vintages. It was as if the vines were taking a needed rest after two years of intense production, so the acids seemed softer and the fruit slightly less concentrated. The hallmarks of Grand Cru wine, the supposed best of the best, should be complexity and depth. While I found many beautiful '97's with classic structure and cellar potential, others seemed ready for immediate drinking. Whites 1997 Maison Chartron et Trebuchet, Grand Cru, Batard-Montrachet Ripe, integrated and expressive, this is a wine that makes you fall in love with white Burgundies. Its long, long aftertaste and balance are the key. 1997 Maison Albert Bichot Chablis, Grand Cru, "Les Clos" Gorgeous floral aromas reminded me of gardenias. Mineral and tart citrus fruit qualities are balanced by a sense of opulence. 1997 Maison La Reine Pedauque, Grand Cru, "Criots-Batard-Montrachet" Elegant and stylish with delicate aromas of tropical fruit and toast. Medium bodied and ready to drink now. Reds 1997 Maison Joseph Drouhin, Grand Cru, Chambertin Supple, silky and altogether wonderful. Ripe black cherry fruit paired with layers of spice, vanilla and just a hint of mushroom make this one of the most intense wines of the tasting. Age for a few years. 1997 Maison Bouchard Pere & Fils, Grand Cru, Chambertin, "Clos de Beze" Complexity is the hallmark of this cellar-worthy Pinot. Though the tannins were young and noticeable, the wine just kept unfolding in my glass beginning with sweet raspberry flavors followed by tea leaves and cloves. All of this wrapped in a plush texture made it one of my favorites of the night. 1997 Maison Champy & Cie, Grand Cru, "Echezeaux" An age-worthy wine that is overflowing with fruit, tannins, oak and complexity. It has it all in spades but needs a little time to smooth out. 1997 Maison Henri de Villamont, Grand Cru, "Clos de Vougeot" With its lovely soft tannins and silky texture paired with a little cinnamon spice on the finish and pretty cherry fruit, this is a wine I would serve tonight. 1997 Maison J.C. Boisset, Grand Cru, "Clos Saint-Denis" Another silky, delicate Pinot with elegance and style. The deep black cherry fruit is an ideal complement to the peppery and earthy quality of the wine. Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet The Chardonnay grape is to winemaking what a blank canvas is to an artist. Depending upon where it's grown and how it's made, Chardonnay can be anything from a crisp white wine to one that is big, buttery and full of oak. In the villages of Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet, Chardonnay becomes no less than one of the world's greatest wines. Going south from the city of Beaune into the Cote de Beaune, you hit Meursault first. It is the largest of the three areas and produces the bulk of the region's white wine. Although Meursault has no Grand Cru vineyards, it is known for its Premier Crus, particularly "Les Perrieres" and "Les Charmes." Next comes Puligny-Montrachet, then Chassagne-Montrachet. Both areas are world-class, but Puligny is hallowed ground. Puligny-Montrachet boasts the highest concentration of white Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy, including all of "Chevalier-Montrachet" and "Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet." It also shares the Grand Cru vineyards of "Le Montrachet," and "Batard-Montrachet" with neighboring Chassagne-Montrachet. All of this can get very confusing so it's easiest to just remember any white Burgundy with an "M" (for Meursault and either of the Montrachets) attached to it is a good - albeit expensive - start in the hunt for high quality. 1995 Domaine Prosper Maufoux Grand Cru, "Batard-Montrachet" After a number of years in the bottle the wine sports a medium to full body, a gorgeous yellow color, rich flavors of apricot, honey, caramel and smoky toastiness. It's thoroughly exotic and complex. 1998 Domaine Carillon Louis & Fils Grand Cru, "Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet" Creamy and round with medium body and long, balanced finish. It just goes on forever. The flavors lean toward tropical fruit with melon and pineapple. 1998 Domaine Chartron & Trebuchet Premier Cru, Chassagne-Montrachet, "Les Morgeots" It's a little more racy and tart than some of the other wines with tangy grapefruit notes, but it also has a softness that makes it appealing. A good candidate to pair with shellfish. Pouilly-Fuisse Pouilly-Fuisse is America's darling. It's just Chardonnay from a region in the southern part of Burgundy called Maconnais, but somehow it's been elevated to cult status in the States. I've overheard many a restaurant customer ordering "a bottle of Pouilly-Fuisse, please." It does have a ring to it when you say "Puyee-Fusay" and it is more affordable than its brethren to the north in Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, but I think the wine's real appeal lies in its ability to pair well with food. Not to be confused with Pouilly-Fume, which is located in the Loire Valley and made from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, Pouilly-Fuisse is also crisp and lean. Citrus flavors dominate and many of the wines achieve a level of complexity without being overbearing. I ended my trip in Pouilly-Fuisse during the final tasting of the "Les Grands Jours de Bourgogne" event. Here are a few wines to look for the next time you're ordering wine in that trendy bistro. 1998 Chateau de Beauregard "La Marechaude" Medium to full-bodied for a Pouilly-Fuisse with vibrant acidity and focused flavors of lime and green apple. A long, creamy aftertaste tops it all off. 1998 Domaine Cordier Pere & Fils "Vers Cras" Smoky aromas catch your attention and they're followed up with flavors of pear, lemon pie and vanilla. It's crisp, though, and well built. Watch out for the '99...it's delicious, too. 1998 Domaine Robert Denogent "Les Carron," Vieilles Vignes Soft and pretty with a medium body and concentrated, juicy lemon/lime and fresh herbal flavors. Ideal for seafood dishes.